Wetcleaning Designer Denim

Denim is a popular fabric both in casual wear and high style designer fabric. The basic construction of all denims is similar and the difference is due to the expense, label and the customers preference in look and wear.  Customers who are wearing designer denims usually prefer a soft well pressed fabric while others in casual wear may want a stiffer and more firm fabric. Denim is a cotton twill weave with a blue indigo dye woven lengthwise with natural white yarns, giving the fabric a blue and white effect. Some manufacturers may piece dye the denim to give a uniform color. Although denims are usually cotton, they can be blended with polyester and also spandex to give a better fit.

WETCLEANING PROGRAMS FOR DESIGNER DENIMS

Manufacturers can program the wetcleaning system using different detergents and softening agents. Some manufacturers products may work better than others. Some manufacturers may program the wetcleaning system better than others. There are manufacturers who prefer using anionic detergents with softening agents while others prefer using cationic detergents with softening agents. In my onsite consultations, I have found both systems work equally well if programmed properly. It is also known that quality of product may differ from one manufacturer to another.

OBJECTIVE

The designer denim you wetclean should have a soft feel, press easily and have depth of color. The proper addition of detergents, softening agents and mechanical action used prevent the denim from losing color. The detergents used should be slightly acid based for setting colors and contain enzymes for effective stain removal.

The following is one of the wetcleaning programs that many drycleaners have used successfully using cationic detergents with cationic softening agents.

1. Five minute wash with cationic detergent, one ounce per ten pounds
2. Water temperature 90 ℉
3. Drum speed 20rpm
4. Drain
5. Cold rinse
6. 2-minute Rinse
7. Drain
8. Intermediate extraction
9. Final rinse with softener
10. 3-minute rinse
11. Drum speed 20rpm
12. Drain
13. Final extraction
14. Dry on a heat cycle for permanent press. Remove after 90% dry.

ADDITIVES FOR SOILED DENIM

1. Hydrogen peroxide with a nonionic detergent.
2. Citrus based degreasers for heavily soiled denim.

DENIMS WITH SPANDEX

1. Avoid hot water over 90 ℉
2. Do not add citrus based degreasers to washing formula.
3. Do not dry in temperatures designed for cottons.
4. Dry on heat used for permanent press.

SPOTTING DENIMS

The key to successful spotting is limiting mechanical action. If you use only a tamping action rather than brushing you will lose less color from the denim. Denims will tend to lose more color using oily type paint removers and citrus based spotters. The less aggressive spotting formulation are anionic detergents, protein formulas and tannin formulas with anionic detergents.

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR

Some denim may have a yellowish discoloration and weak areas. This condition may be caused by the stone washing and acid washing process used in manufacture to create a worn and distressed look. The acid washing process uses bleaching agents which may not be properly rinsed and neutralized. The stone washing process uses pumice stones and other abrasive material which may also weaken the denim.

CORRECTING COLOR LOSS ON DENIM

1. Apply a little blue ink on a cloth and gently rub affected area.
2. Tamp area with a white pencil which would create the denim effect.