Care and knowledge are necessary to successfully clean a wedding gown without damaging it. Wedding gowns may have different price tags, but all gowns have a large degree of sentimental value. Therefore, creating customer satisfaction is a must to make cleaning wedding gowns a successful, integral part of your business.
At the Counter
Visible stains should be noted and questions asked about the origin of the stains for best stain removal. The counter person should ask if any other substances may have contacted the gown that may be invisible at the time of inspection.
The gown should also be checked closely for snags and tears. Close-fitting areas should be examined for yarn and seam slippage. All conditions of the article should be noted on the invoice, no matter how small or insignificant they may appear at the time of receipt.
If the gown has been stored for a long period of time or is very old, the tensile strength of the fabric should be evaluated. Areas that should be examined for weakness include the underarms, lace areas, and close-fitting portions of the gown. If any weakness is evident, the gown may not survive an immersion in solvent or water, or the tumbling effects of drycleaning. Notify the customer of the possible risks involved in the care procedures to which the gown will be subjected.
Trim
It is also important to determine how trim has been applied to the gown. Many beads, laces, feathers, and other trims may be attached with glue. If the trim has been glued to the gown, the glue should be tested to see if it will withstand the solvents used in cleaning. Apply a generous amount of solvent to a glued area, if the glue softens or becomes tacky, the glue will most likely dissolve in drycleaning procedures, resulting in the loss of the trim. Test with the solvent you are using for cleaning. Many glues and trims may soften in perc, but clean well in petroleum or fluorocarbon.
The trim itself should also be tested for resistance to solvent. Many beads contain polystyrene which is soluble in some solvents. In some cases, only the core of the bead is constructed of polystyrene and testing the beads is not always indicative of the beads’ performance in drycleaning; core beads deteriorate from the center of the core and damage is not always evident with a cursory test. To test beads, it is necessary to apply the chosen solvent and examine the beads for softening of the components. If the trim becomes tacky, it may be dissolved or disfigured during a cleaning process. A gown may have many different beads that will require testing.
Sequins should also be tested for resistance to the chosen care process. Many sequins possess a metallic or colored coating which may be removed when immersed in the solvent. To test sequins, apply a small amount of solvent to an inconspicuous area of sequins and rub briskly. If the sequin color or reflectance is altered by the test, the sequins will not withstand the effects of solvent.
If a problem becomes apparent after an evaluation of all components of the garment, the results should be related to the customer. If there are any doubts about the garment’s ability to withstand the advised care process, it is suggested a customer consent form should be filled out and the customer be made aware of risks involved in cleaning the article. Some problems are unforeseen in cleaning wedding gowns. However, thorough testing and examination should eliminate most alarming discoveries of damage after a care process.
Prespotting and Spotting
Most gowns should be prespotted before the initial care process to decrease the amount of agitation necessary to clean the garment during drycleaning. Hemlines are usually heavily soiled and require prespotting. Prespotting also is necessary to remove stains that can be set in the fabric with the heat necessary for drying; blood, albumin, sugar, and beverage stains are typically found on a stained gown and can be removed easier in local spotting/prespotting than in spotting procedures conducted after the drycleaning process. Prespotters with moisture can be used, but allow the garment to air dry thoroughly before cleaning. Never clean a garment while still damp with moisture.
As any experienced spotter knows, it is important to consider all aspects of a fabric and stain prior to attempted removal. The fiber content will determine what spotting agents can be used safely. Review the fiber content(s) of the gown and remember, fabric safety is the most important aspect of spotting; a stain is the customer’s until further damage occurs.
Fabric construction also plays a part in fabric safety. Satins, taffetas, sheers, and a multitude of laces cannot be spotted aggressively. Placing a handkerchief or piece of cheesecloth over the spotting brush can reduce the possibilities of fabric damage when spotting delicate fabrics.
After evaluating limits set by the fiber content and construction of the fabric, it is necessary to determine the agents that will be used in spotting. If the origin of the stain is unknown, it is advisable to start with dryside agents since dryside agents will not set stains. Proceed with the use of alkaline spotters or protein spotters for the removal of aluminous stains such as milk, eggs, dairy byproducts, blood or body discharges. Red dye stains can often be lightened or removed with alkaline spotting agents. Flush the area thoroughly with steam and neutralize it with an acid spotting agent or tannin formula if a color change occurs. Acid spotting agents, such as 28 percent acetic acid or a tannin formula, should aid in the removal of tannin stains such as coffee, tea, mustard, or grass, Sugar stains, if not set in the fabric, can also be removed with tannin or acid spotting agents.
After spotting, thoroughly flushing the area with steam is necessary to remove any residual stain or spotting agent which may oxidize and yellow with age. The application of a leveling agent maybe necessary to eliminate wet side spotting rings.
After any extensive local wetside spotting is done, a leveling agent should be applied prior to cleaning. The excess moisture from the wetside spotting should be dried with vacuum and air before the leveling agent is applied. Hang the garment aside to dry for approximately 30 minutes before cleaning. A leveling agent can be purchased from your supplier or made by mixing approximately seven parts of drycleaning solvent with three parts of drycleaning detergent.
Drycleaning
Try to limit the drycleaning cycle to a short cycle, if possible, due to the fragile nature of the article. Usually, with proper prespotting and pretreating of stains and soils, gowns can be adequately cleaned in a cycle of three to five minutes. This of course will be predicated on the type of soil on the article and the type of solvent used in cleaning. The solvent must be in excellent condition, as most of these garments will be white or pastel. Never dryclean an article that is still damp with moisture from any previous spotting or prespotting.
It is very important to maintain excellent solvent conditions as these garments are usually made of tightly woven fabrics and tend to show streaks and swales. Failure to sufficiently distill solvent may cause a high level of nonvolatile residue in the solvent. Improper distillation can cause streaking and swaling which can only be overcome by recleaning the article in properly maintained solvents.
Wetcleaning
Some garments will require wetcleaning and bleaching due to extensive soiling or yellowing from aging. All wetcleaning should be done with customer consent and knowledge of risks involved. Loss of body or sheen, shrinkage, or a variance in whiteness between component parts may occur.
If possible, identify the fiber content of all components of the garment prior to bleaching procedures. Test all components of the garment before bleach is used. Remove any detachable components or trim that will not withstand wetcleaning, Foam shoulder pads or bra cups should be removed because foam is deteriorated by most bleaches. Many buttons are constructed with metal backings and may not survive most wetcleaning procedures. In most cases, it is advisable to remove buttons prior to wetcleaning procedures and/or replace them with new, covered buttons after wetcleaning. In all wetcleaning procedures, avoid agitation and overcrowding the garment in a tub or basin.
In most cases, both stains and yellowing can be lightened or removed by bleaching the gown with hydrogen peroxide bleach. Use approximately two ounces of hydrogen peroxide per gallon of warm water (120° F), Allow the gown to soak four to five hours for best results. Add additional hydrogen peroxide periodically because hydrogen peroxide decomposes and loses its bleaching ability over time.
If a stronger bleach is necessary, sodium hypochlorite (chlorine) bleach can be used. Add approximately two ounces of 5¼ percent chlorine bleach per five gallons of warm water for approximately one hour. Rinse with cool water several times and neutralize the residual chlorine with a reducing bleach such as sodium hydrosulfite or an antichlor. Rinse thoroughly and allow to drip dry. Some beads will be discolored by the antichlor or sodium hydrosulfite used to neutralize a chlorine bleach. This condition can be remedied by rinsing the beaded trim with hydrogen peroxide. Always rinse thoroughly with water after all bleaching procedures.
Finishing
Most materials used in wedding gowns require finishing on a hothead press or a press which contains a smooth head. Buck steam can be used to smooth out the fabric and a water spray can be used in areas that contain hard wrinkles. Do not steam acetate fabrics while damp with a water spray or delustered areas will result. Some satins and taffetas can be finished better with a flannel cover on the buck of the press. Laces should be pressed carefully. Do not press textured laces flat. Proper use of the various puff irons will help finish the bodice, sleeves, or gathered portions of the garment.
Conclusion
Wedding gowns can be properly handled by a cleaner as long as there is a thorough inspection at the counter and an understanding with the consumer about any unusual problems. Proper use of prespotting procedures prior to cleaning will enable you to obtain good cleaning with a short cleaning cycle. Allow moisture from spotting or prespotting to evaporate before cleaning to avoid dye and soil pickup, possible color loss, or hard wrinkles in the fabric. Proper finishing and the use of tissue in the bodice and sleeves will add a professional touch. Cleaners may also want to offer the consumer the use of the wedding gown box for ease of storage.
This article is from DLI’s TOI-610
