Handling Finishing Problems

Manufacturers impart finishes to fabrics to give characteristics such as hand, body, feel, sheen, luster and ease of pressing. During drycleaning, wear, spotting and wetcleaning these finishes may be lost. Drycleaners should understand that these finishes can be replaced or supplemented by products they can use.

DRYCLEANING

The routine drycleaning process should not change the finish that manufacturers supply provided the right amount of detergent is used. If garments are drycleaned without the proper amount of detergent they will come out harsh and lose the depth of color. Garments that are not cleaned with the proper amount of detergent are referred to as “squeaky clean”. Garments that are cleaned with too much detergent may also lose finish due to the excess moisture used. That is why drycleaners should make sure that on smaller loads that are drycleaned less detergent should be added. Hot solvent is another reason why fabrics lose finish,

RESTORING LUSTER TO FADED, DULL AND CHAFED FABRICS

If garments are chafed, faded and show a loss of luster a mineral oil bath should be used. I like using this process better than prepared products that are mixed with solvent and require spraying for use. A mineral oil bath can be implemented by filling the drycleaning wheel with fifteen gallons of solvent and 20 ounces of mineral oil. Batch for three minutes, drain, light extraction and dry. This treatment is not only less hazardous than spraying but also less expensive than prepared products.

RESTORING LUSTER AND DEPTH OF COLOR IN WETCLEANING

There are products on the market that can give more luster and sheen to garments that have been wetcleaned. This is especially effective for knit shirts and denims. These products do not add softness but simply luster and depth of color.

SOFTER FABRICS, MORE LUSTER AND EASIER PRESSING

There are wetcleaning formulations that will make fabrics softer and easier to press. The best wetcleaning formulations to use are catioic degergents with cationic softening agents. The wetcleaning fornulation is washed three minutes, drain, extract, rinse with softening agent three minute, drain, extract.

“ACETATE” (DE-LUSTERING)

Sometimes acetate fabrics will deluster from contact with moisture and heat. This can sometimes be restored by spraying with 14% acetic acid. After spraying hang to dry and re-clean. 

WETSIDE RINGS AND DISCOLORATIONS

This frequently occurs on rayon and silk. The fogging method is recommended to correct this. Hold steam gun 12 inches from fabric and steam the affected area. Dry with air gun.

DRYSIDE RINGS AND SWALES

This frequently occurs on satins and taffetas made of polyester. Prespot with amyl acetate or oily type ink remover and then deyclean.

YELLOWING DUE TO OXIDATION OF SIZING

 Many fabrics will yellow when the wetside sizing used breaks down. The best way to correct this condition is to soak it in a bath with sodium percarbonate. Use two ounces of sodium percarbonate per gallon of water. Soak for a few hours,rinse, neutralize with acetic acid and rinse again.

Picture of Dan Eisen

Dan Eisen

Dan Eisen, former chief garment analyst for the National Cleaners Association, offers lecture, consultation and garment analysis service. He is the author of The Art of Spotting. He can be reached at (772) 340-0909, by email at cleandan@comcast.net or through his website at www.garmentanalysis.com. Dan Eisen, 274 NW Toscane Trail, Port Saint Lucie, FL 34986.

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