Cleaning vintage clothes

There is an increasing interest by consumers to not only collect, but wear the fashions of years past. Amazingly enough people who kept garments for many years knew something about preservation. I dealt with many people who brought vintage clothing to me wrapped in tissue paper or a white sheet that had been preserved in pretty good condition for many years. The cleaner who undertakes the cleaning and restoration of vintage clothing should know something about the fabrics about the era, dyes, and should have a thorough knowledge of chemicals and expertise in drycleaning and wetcleaning. I have been involved for many years cleaning vintage clothing for museums, including the Metropolitan Museum in NYC. I have dealt with many private collectors who buy and sell vintage clothing. In a past article, I have recently reported that I was a consultant brought in to clean Colonel Saunders (KFC) suits that he wore while cooking his famous fried chicken. After restoration, one of the suits was auctioned off and sold for $80,000.

In dealing with vintage clothing understand what fashion, fabrics, trimming and dyes were used.

Trimmings
• Hooks and eyes were common before 1915
• Snaps common after 1912
• Elastic after 1915
• Zippers after 1935
• After 1856 garments were machine stitched
• Epaulettes appeared on the shoulders after 1859

Fibers
• After 1910 commercial production of rayon started in the U.S.
• Acetate started in 1953
• Acrylic started in 1950
• Polyester started in 1953

Fabrics
All fabrics were used in antique clothing employing characteristics of the three major weaves (plain, twill and satin). This includes taffeta, brocade, batiste, velvet, muslin, crepe, and ribbed fabrics.

Dyes
Vegetable dyes obtained from fruits and vegetables were commonly used up until the middle 1800’s. Aniline dyes and synthetic dyes were first introduced in 1860. History reports that sailors introduced blue indigo dyes in their uniforms because they did not fade. After 1930 white became the traditional color for wedding gowns. Prior to that, brides had choices of color including wine, black, blue, brown and pastels.

ACCEPTING VINTAGE CLOTHES FOR CLEANING

Vintage clothing in wool fabrics should be carefully examined for moth infestation. Skirts and bodices used bone and metal inserts and should be inspected for damages on the fabric caused by the inserts. Beads and trimmings were usually applied in a chain stitch, which means that when the sewing thread snaps all of the trimming unravels. Dye fading can be observed by examining reverse side of fabric for color difference. Buttons were often made of glass, which should be removed before cleaning. Check for re-dyeing of the fabric, which was often the fashionable thing for the bride to do after a wedding. The white gown was often cut down, dyed and used as a regular dress.

DRYCLEANING

Dryclean vintage garments in a moisture free load using mild agitation to prevent fabric damage. Use proper soap addition to obtain soil removal and prevent redeposition of soil.
When drying the fabric, the drum should be controlled so that the garment receives less mechanical action. This means that the drum is turned a few times and the garments are allowed to only lie in the drum before the drum is turned again. Crinolines with bone inserts are best handled in wetcleaning. These should be soaked with a mild detergent, rinsed and dried on a wind whip or steam air finisher. Fringe trimming should be tied with string and put into a net bag to prevent tangling and knotting. Fortuny is a vintage pleated dress made of silk. The pleats were put in by a method in the early 1900’s and the method was kept a secret. These dresses should be twisted and tied and then put into a net bag before cleaning. Some colors may bleed and transfer during drycleaning but this can usually be corrected by re-cleaning a few times and making sure no moisture is used in drycleaning.

SPOTTING

The spotting of antique clothing differs in dye sensitivity from today’s modern fabrics. Due to the vegetable dyes often used acids can cause dye bleeding or permanent color changes on some fabrics. Cleaners who are used to using rust remover will find many dyes that are permanently damaged when used. Test all spotting chemicals before using. Digesters are normally safe to most fabrics but on old wool may be hazardous. When using the steam gun always spot into a towel to confine loose dye. Stop spotting if bleeding is noticeable on the towel. When spotting ribbed fabrics such as grosgrain or bengaline, remember to rub or brush against the ribs, not with the ribs. Spot satin and brocade on the reverse side of the fabric to prevent yarn chafing. Although acetate velvets were not popular as a pile fabric, flattening of the pile on silk and rayon velvet can be just as troublesome. Watch out for any inscriptions or writing on waistband areas and avoid spotting or pre-spotting these areas.

WETCLEANING

White fabrics respond to a soaking in sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate bleach. Remember to rinse and sour thoroughly. Wedding gown buttons will tend to rust after bleaching or wetcleaning. A way to prevent this would be to sour the gown using oxalic acid. Removal of the buttons prior to wetcleaning may be troublesome but less bothersome in the long run. Do not wetclean crepe fabrics as shrinkage will be a major problem. Test colors for dye fastness before wetcleaning.

FINISHING

Popular sleeve styling used were the bell shaped sleeve, pagoda sleeve and it should be steamed only and not creased. Finishing a wedding gown is time consuming as the gowns consisted of yards of fabric. After finishing a gown should be hung on a hanger and the steam iron used to remove any wrinkling remaining. Sometimes using a chain to hang and raise the gown over a steam air finisher will be helpful. Velvet should be handled using a velvet brush while steaming the fabric. Remember spraying with water cannot be used on acetate, rayon or silk velvet.