Rayon and acetate blend fabrics

Blended fabrics are widely used because usually the blend enhances the serviceability of the fabric. A proper blend of cotton and polyester has the look of cotton but the wrinkle resistance of polyester. Nylon blended with wool also gives the wool wrinkle resistance. Rayon and acetate are entirely different. The blended fabric possesses the limitations of both acetate and rayon. Although rayon can be manufactured as a durable and washable, the rayon produced for blends is usually viscose rayon which becomes weakened when wet and shrinks easily. Rayon and acetate are used in many high styled woman’s wears as well as in all weaves including satin, plain, crepe, taffeta and velvet.

WEAKNESSES

Manufacturers can produce the durable rayon which is referred to as high wet modulus which can be wetcleaned and wears well. A less durable rayon produced is called viscose rayon which becomes weak when wet and shrinks easily. This means that this rayon will weaken in wear easily. The type of rayon fiber used in blends is usually the viscose rayon which is the least durable of the two.

• Acetate – Unlike rayon, acetate is thermo-plastic in nature. It is subject to fume fading and discolored easily from contact with alcohol. This can occur during normal wear or using alcohol found in some spotting chemicals. General formula contains alcohol and oily type paint remover when in contact with water will release alcohol.

FABRIC PROBLEMS

(1) Velvet – The acetate pile will permanently flatten in contact with moisture. This can occur from rain, spillage of food and beverage and routine spotting using water.
(2) Crepe – Rayon and acetate crepe will shrink in any wetcleaning process.
(3) Satin – Satin is constructed with floating yarns. The floating yarns will chafe and discolor from minimum rubbing and abrasion.
(4) Pleating – Acetate is thermoplastic in nature and it can be heat set. Rayon cannot be heat-set. Wetcleaning will cause loss of pleating.
(5) Draperies – The life of rayon and acetate draperies is limited. The fabric will easily discolor and weaken from exposure to sunlight and gases in the atmosphere.
(6) Linings – Rayon and acetate linings do not wear well and is likely to fray and weaken during wear.
(7) Gabardine – Rayon and acetate gabardine shines easily. Routine finishing will cause shined areas.
(8) Red, blue and purple colors – Fume fading or color loss due to gases in the atmosphere can occur on any color but are more susceptible to the aforementioned colors. Fume fading can occur during wear or while garments are hanging in the closet.

IDENTIFICATION

To identify the presence of acetate a small piece of fabric should be cut out and acetone should be applied. Acetate fiber will be dissolved. If a match is held to a sample piece of fabric, the acetate portion will melt leaving a bead or hard edge but when the flame is extinguished there will be a glowing ember that leaves the remains of fluffy ash.

DRYCLEANING

Dryclean according to weave and appearance. Silk type fabrics should be cleaned 3~5 minutes in a dry load and dried at 140℉.

SPOTTING

Use a padded brush or wrap a towel around the bristle brush to avoid fabric damage.
Avoid spatulas which can alter the appearance of the fabric.
In using oily type paint removers, the garment must be drycleaned immediately. Failure to do so may result in color loss from moisture in the air.
Avoid using General Formulas which can cause color loss.
Tannin and protein formulas are usually safe but avoid using acetic acid. Even mild acetic acid when heated becomes strong and can affect acetate.

WETCLEANING

Most rayon and acetates cannot be wetcleaned. Velvet, crepe and gabardine must never be wetcleaned. Wetcleaning is permissible only on those fabrics with a label stating that the garment is washable.

NEWS FROM DAN EISEN’S INDEPENDENT GARMENT ANALYSIS SERVICE

We have been experiencing a high volume of fabric problems from drycleaners nationally. If you would like to have a phone consultation with Dan Eisen before sending a garment, please call Dan at 772-579-5044.