Acetate is often confused with rayon. Acetate and rayon are both manufactured from cellulose, a compound obtained from natural sources such as cotton and wood pulp. The cellulose used for rayon is only physically changed from cellulose, but chemically the same as natural cellulose. Acetate on the other hand is changed chemically and is different from the original characteristics of cellulose. Acetate fiber possesses thermoplastic characteristics and is therefore heat sensitive. The term triacetate may be used as a generic description of the fiber. Acetate has a look similar to silk. It is popularly blended with rayon but can also be blended with other fibers including silk and polyester. Acetate is widely used in gowns and evening wear due to its crisp hand, feel and its look of silk. It is also used for crepe, velvet, satin and taffeta weaves. It is used in blouses, skirts and suits (both men’s and women’s). It is also very commonly used in draperies blended with rayon.
Consumer problems
- Fume fading-Disperse dyes used for acetate are affected by gases (nitrogen oxide) in the atmosphere. Blues and grays may turn pink and greens may turn brown. This can occur when a garment is hanging in a closet or when packed away.
- Alcohol-Acetate is readily affected by alcohol found in deodorants, perfumes and liquor.
- Velvet distortion-Acetate will distort permanently from contact with moisture and pressure.
- Nail polish remover-Acetate will dissolve when in contact with nail polish remover due to the acetone composition.
- Deterioration-During manufacture titanium dioxide is added to the acetate fiber to deluster the fiber. Delustered acetate is easily damaged by sunlight and conditions in normal wear. This is why some acetate linings fall apart and shred easily. Bright acetate is more resistant to these conditions.
Spotting problems
- Strong acetate acid can discolor and even dissolve acetate when the solution is greater than 28%.
- Oily type paint remover and water releases alcohol which can damage acetate. Some manufacturers produce spotting agents with an acetone or alcohol base that can damage acetate.
- General formula contains alcohol and can damage acetate fiber.
Finishing problems
Hot head presses and some hand irons can fuse and melt the acetate fiber. Finishing procedures using heat and pressure can cause shine or produce a moire or grain effect on the leg of slacks. Steam on acetate while wet or damp can cause the area to deluster and discolor.
Identification
Acetate can be identified as a thermoplastic fiber by the burn test. A sample piece of fabric from an unexposed seam is held to a lit match. A hard bead that is difficult to crush indicates the thermoplastic properties. A more conclusive test is to saturate the sample with acetone. If the fabric fully or partially dissolves it is acetate or a blend.
Inspection
Examine acetate and blends for light or atmospheric gas fading. The dyes tend to discolor to a reddish pink. Examine the shoulder and sleeve area and compare it with an unexposed area to detect fading. Examine neckline and underarm area for color loss due to alcohol, perspiration and deodorants. Examine acetate velvets for flattened areas. Shirts that are labeled acetate or blends should not be sent to commercial laundries because the heat used will adversely affect the acetate.
Drycleaning
Run 3-4 minutes in cool solvent between 75-80oF. Dry at no higher than 140oF. Immediately hang after drying to prevent wrinkles. Acetate is not affected by chlorinated or hydrocarbon solvent. Some other solvents such as glycol ether or CO2 may affect acetate.
Spotting
Hold the steam gun at least 6 inches from acetate fabric to avoid distortion, fusing or changing the yarn texture. Limit mechanical action by tamping lightly with a silk spotting brush or wrap a towel around a regular brush. Do not use a bone or a spatula which will alter or flatten the yarn. Allow wet area to dry before drycleaning.
Wetcleaning
Acetate is usually safe to wetclean expect velvet and pile fabrics. Blends such as acetate blended with silk may cause problems. The fabric may bleed due to the silk content. Use a mild detergent in water at 100oF. Do not wring or extract the garment. Instead hang to dry. Do not use steam before the garment has dried. Delustering or color loss may occur. To insure safety to wetcleaning the dyes on dark and multicolored fabrics should be tested.
Finishing
Steam acetate fabric lightly. Limit top head pressure to avoid shine. Be alert for moisture leaks in the equipment or delustering may result. Do not spray moisture on the fabric while steaming. Hand irons must be cool for touch up even if covered with a teflon shoe.
Correction procedures
- If an area of acetate is slightly discolored correction is sometimes possible. Spray affected area with a mild acetic acid (14%). Hang to dry and then reclean.
- Wrinkles-Soak garment in water with a mild detergent and a little acetic acid. Rinse and then tumble in a warm dryer.
- Flattened acetate velvet-Use a stiff brush and no moisture. Brush in the direction of the lay of the pile.
- Bleaching-Most bleaches can be used on acetate. Use a mild chlorine bleach to avoid yellowing. If yellowing occurs use sodium hydrosulphate as an antichlor.
